Monday, December 26, 2011

Irrigation - Carrying Out Routine Checks On Your Garden Irrigation System

!±8± Irrigation - Carrying Out Routine Checks On Your Garden Irrigation System

The winter is the ideal season for checking out all the different components of your irrigation system. It may be stating the obvious, but from my over 20 year's worth of experience as a professional gardener in a hot dry country, many people tend to forget about it during the rainy season, only to wake up in a panic at the first sign of hot weather in the spring. So make a commitment to go through the system 8 weeks or so before the onset of spring. Let's see then what has to be done, section by section.

Underground lawn sprinklers

Firstly open the tap to see which sprinklers if any are not working properly. Underground or pop-up sprinklers can sometimes sink somewhat in the ground. Adjust the height of the whole housing if necessary, even if that involves some digging to do so. Modern sprinkler heads have small filters inserted in the housing. Clean out each one. Three minutes work per unit can save a lot of frustration later, as part of the grass browns off in the summer, due to poor water coverage. It's also important to check the state of the nozzles. They become worn over time, and should be replaced every 3-5 years.

Drip irrigation

Irrigation drippers tend to get blocked in time. Switch on to see which ones are not emitting water. If the drippers are pre-set in the pipe by the manufacturer, then insert a "button" dripper next to the blocked up units. To reduce blockages in the future, it is essential to flush out the lines at least once a year. After turning on the tap, simply open the end of the line and let the water flow for about 5 minutes or so. The life span of dripper lines is usually up to 10-15 years, as mineral deposits in the water eventually make the line inoperable. However, neglecting to periodically wash out the system will significantly reduce their operable life span. I've seen drippers block up after 3 or 4 years when this simple routine task is ignored.

The Irrigation head unit

A professional irrigation system will include a controller, or timer, filters and pressure regulators. Needless to say, wash out the filters thoroughly. A dirty filter reduces the water flow rate, resulting in reduced pressure to the sprinklers, and blockages in the dripper lines. The operating efficiency of the pressure regulators should also be checked. These are vital for ensuring that the drip system is operating at the prescribed dynamic pressure, which is something between 1-2 Bars for a home unit. You may need professional assistance in this, but don't neglect the task, because high operating pressure can cause the connections to come away and even to burst. Replace batteries where necessary.

Finally, spray oil on all the metal parts of the unit. What a pain it is to try and unscrew a fitting attached to the wall, only to find the screws are totally rusted! As a very great comic actor and writer once said - "Silly little point but it does seem to matter!" I wonder if you know who that might have been.


Irrigation - Carrying Out Routine Checks On Your Garden Irrigation System

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Tuesday, December 20, 2011

Make-shift Drip Irrigation Project -Pt. 3- Assembling Parts

Assembling the pressure regulator unit and drip line plug for our makeshift drip irrigation project. To find the parts you need to complete your own drip irrigation project, head over to www.sprinklerdaddy.ca

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Saturday, December 3, 2011

Installing Drip Irrigation

!±8± Installing Drip Irrigation

Drip irrigation is the process of applying small amounts of water, slowly and directly to the root base of the plant or shrub exactly where it needs it. Drip is best suited for shrub or flower beds and will not work to water a lawn area. A professionally designed irrigation system consists of a combination of rotors, sprays, and drip. Rotors are great for large lawn areas, sprays are used for smaller lawn areas or shrub beds, and drip can be used for shrub beds and more delicate flowers.

There are several great things about drip irrigation. First off you are only applying water directly where the plant or flower needs it, right at the root of the plant, which cuts down on a lot of waste. Secondly since you are applying water right where it is needed you will cut down on weeds since you will not be watering unnecessary areas. If your water source is a metered supply such as city water, drip irrigation can save you hundreds of dollars per year. Drip irrigation consumes up to 300X less water than conventional sprays when watering the same area.

If you have an existing irrigation system you can actually easily convert to drip irrigation fairly easy. For example, if you have a shrub bed that currently uses spray heads, you can remove the sprays and cap them off and run drip tube in its' place. Rain Bird makes a product called a 'retro-fit kit' that can be installed directly into the case of an existing 1800 series spray head (the most commonly used spray head in residential irrigation.) Even if you have a different brand or model of spray heads, you can just remove a spray head near the middle or center of the zone and install the Rain Bird 1800 retro fit.

The retro-fit drip has a built-in pressure regulator to reduce the pressure to be suitable for drip and it also has a screen to filter out junk that would clog up the drip emitters. You can then come off the retro-fit and run drip tube with pre-installed emitters along the bed and right near the roots of the plants. Rain Bird makes a drip tube that is called 600 series drip and has pre-installed emitters spaced one every 1 foot. You can also get the drip with emitters installed every 18" if you'd like.

If you don't want the drip with pre-installed emitters than you can choose the 'naked' drip tube which is just the tubing alone. You can then manually install emitters in the size and spot where you want them. Drip is measured in gallons per hour (gph) instead of gallons per minute (gpm) like conventional sprinkler heads. The 600 series drip tube with pre-installed emitters that I mentioned allows 0.9 gph out of each emitter. This might not seem like a lot, but it is almost one gallon of water in one hour coming out of each emitter. Imagine filling up a gallon milk container 90% full and that is the amount of water that is being delivered.

There are many areas that may be suitable for drip irrigation, it is up to you if you want to use it. I will say one negative thing about drip is that even with the filters and screens, the tiny emitters do tend to get clogged on systems that have shallow wells as their water source. This is because of the dirt and minerals like iron that tend to be in this well water. Most deeper wells do not have as much of a problem and drip works best with a clean source like city water. I tend to use drip mainly on systems tied to city water because of the clean water and the cost savings. Sprinkler systems tied to shallow wells do not cost the homeowner an arm and a leg in water costs, so I tend to stick with sprays for those systems.


Installing Drip Irrigation

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